Wild Wednesdays on the Kumano Kodo: Mt Hibari | 雲雀山 和歌山県
In the heat of summer, the Kumano Kodo beckons. I come in search of history on the slopes of Mt Hibari. My first stop is Tokusho-ji, the temple of Chūjō-hime. The temple houses 8th century relics supposedly crafted by Chūjō-hime herself. Legend has it that Chūjō-hime was ordered to be killed on Mt Hibari by her wicked stepmother, but instead her life was spared and she undertook ascetic training on the rocky cliffs of the mountain. Time to investigate. But before I do, I stop at Japan’s oldest Inari shrine. Giant Kusunoki trees provide a calm canopy. I head up the narrow, paved slopes of the Kumano Kodo, but soon branch off thru the orange groves toward the trailhead. The sun is hot but I’m thankful for the slivers of shade at times. I finally enter the cooler confines of the forest. An old stone pagoda greets me upon arriving on the ridge. The training grounds of Chūjō-hime. She apparently used this rock as a natural desk to copy sutras. Further on the ridge, I find the unmarked summit of Mt Hibari, or Skylark peak. Too hot for birdwatching, I drop down for lunch in the shade. Feeling refreshed, I push on westward, back toward the Kumano Kodo. For such a sacred place, there sure is a fair amount of neglect. I reconnect with the Kumano Kodo but continue west, enticed by the spirit of Myōe. My first glimpse of the sea brings on my second wind. I have arrived at Myōe’s hermitage. The 12 century monk sought solitude on these rocks and apparently also cut off his right ear here. After paying my respects at the temple that Myōe helped open, I descend down to the shores of the Pacific.
A walk along the Kumano Kodo turns into a sweat soaked endeavor in search of history. Just another day in the mountains of Japan.
Watch more Wild Wednesday videos: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLhGySkicCYFj8ErwZDb_gZNeQ7pL2VWAz&feature=shared
For more information on Japan’s mountains, please visit my website:https://hikinginjapan.com
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FIRST. RECOGNIZE!