WHEN TRAVELLERS dream of Japan, it’s often bustling Tokyo streets or serene Kyoto temples that come to mind. But tucked away between Kyushu and Okinawa islands in the country’s far south lies Amami Ōshima, a lush subtropical isle where time slows down, traditions are kept alive, and nature thrives. If you’re seeking a destination that’s equal parts adventurous, cultural and serene, Amami Ōshima promises a journey like no other.
THINGS TO DO
Serenity found: the palm-dotted Amami Beach
Amami is home to many of Japan’s most breathtaking beaches—places that feel almost untouched by time. To explore the island in comfort and depth, renting a car is the best way to go (car hire from approx. ¥9,900 per day). Tomori Beach, with its dazzling white sand and shallow turquoise waters, is like a postcard brought to life. Families often gather at Ohama Seaside Park, where gentle waves are paired with kid-friendly amenities, while Yadoribama Beach offers a more secluded escape for snorkelling or sunset strolls.
Inland, Amami reveals a quieter elegance through its deep-rooted craft of tsumugi textiles—luxurious silk dyed with mud and fermented plant extracts. Traditionally used to make fine kimonos, these featherlight fabrics often take months to complete and are among the most expensive textiles in Japan. See the mud-dyeing and weaving up close at Ooshima Tsumugimura (tumugi.co.jp; entrance fee ¥550). And if you like what you see, but don’t want to break the bank, head to Portside Amami (@portside_amami), a shop showcasing vintage and rejuvenated kimonos.
Tsumugi textiles—luxurious silk dyed with mud
A portside Amami shop
I loved discovering the beauty of Amami through an artist’s lens at the Tanaka Isson Memorial Museum (amamipark.com; entrance fee ¥520). Often likened to Paul Gauguin, artist Tanaka Isson spent his final years on Amami painting the island’s vibrant flora and wildlife. His bright, stylised renderings capture the soul of Amami; the museum is not just a quiet tribute to the artist, but to the island itself—calm and inspiring.
WHAT TO EAT AND DRINK
Workers at Mizuma Kokutō Factory
Amami Ōshima doesn’t just charm with its beaches and lush greenery; it invites you to taste its spirit. The island’s culinary identity begins with kokutō, a mineral-rich black sugar unique to the region. Unlike refined sugar, kokutō is crafted using traditional slow-boiling methods that preserve its earthy molasses flavour. It finds its way into everything from confections to glazes and, most famously, into kokutō shochu, Amami’s signature distilled spirit.
Visit the island between November and June and see how kokutō is made at Mizuma Kokutō Factory (mizumakokutou.com), where freshly harvested sugarcane is transformed into rich, mineral-packed black sugar using time-tested methods. Try a piece still warm from the pot to really appreciate its deep, caramelised flavour.
You should also visit one of the island’s many kokutō shochu distilleries. While casual tastings are widely available, the most immersive experience comes through a private tour with Amami Tours (amamitours.com; private half-day tour, ¥19,200 per person, min. two).
John at family-run Nishihira Distillery
Keihan, a popular dish indigenous to Amami
Meet John, who works at Nishihira Distillery (nishihira-shuzo.com), for an insider look at this multi-generational distillery. The Nishihira family are not only skilled shochu makers, but also talented musicians and singers—a unique trait that finds its way into their craft. Some of their shochu is aged using a process known as sonic aging, where reggae, hip-hop, or Latin music is played continuously during fermentation, infusing rhythm into every bottle. The tour ends with a curated tasting, letting guests enjoy truly distinct shochu flavour “notes.”
On the topic of unique local delicacies, nothing encapsulates Amami’s hospitality quite like keihan. This comforting indigenous dish layers rice with shredded chicken, thin omelet, shiitake mushrooms, pickles, and green onions, finished with a delicate chicken broth. Once reserved for travelling samurai, it’s now a staple in both home kitchens and refined restaurants, and available all over the island.
WHERE TO STAY
Room with a view at Miru Amami
The stunning boutique hotel Miru Amami (mirucollection.com; half-board from ¥24,505 per person, per night), perfectly captures the relaxed, stylish spirit of the island in its boutique oceanside pods. Miru means “to see” in Japanese—fitting for a place that invites you to truly absorb your surroundings. Last year Miru launched stilted wooden villas with sleek interiors and private pools overlooking the water. A half-board plan incorporates breakfasts and dinners that highlight seasonal and local cuisine—but be sure to venture beyond the resort to experience the full gamut of Amami’s culinary magic.
BOOK YOUR STAY AT MIRU AMAMI VIA BOOKING.COM
Photographs by Cindy Bissig.
Note:
The information in this article is accurate as of the date of publication.
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Written By
Cindy Bissig
Cindy is a multifaceted content creator and ever-traveling documenter of the Japan experience,
As ..Read Morea Digital Nomad, she works as a writer and editor for Obsessed with Japan – an online Travel and Culture Magazine, creating compelling written and visual content. She also creates educational and fun videos for “Let’s Travel and Eat” a Youtube Chanel focusing on what it said on the tin: Travel and Food.
As a Freelance writer, photographer, curator and SNS wizard she works with businesses in the sake, food, travel and art sector, due to her strong interest in illustration, photography, digital art, and videography. Lending her unique skills and knowledge to other creators.
And last, but certainly not least, with “Sake Nomad” she works in the world of Japanese sake. Leading workshops and events, often travel-themed, with a strong focus on Japanese culture. She also works behind the scenes as a writer, editor, and social media consultant introducing Japanese sake one cup one at a time. Read Less
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