Soak in the three-Michelin-starred baths of Hyotan Onsen. Learn more about the craft of traditional bamboo weaving by taking a class at the Bamboo Cultural Center.Take a thermal sand bath while looking out over Beppu Bay at Shonin Park.Dabble in Japan’s natural wine scene and learn about unique regional varieties at New Basara.Spend a night at Galleria Midobaru, a gorgeous museum-like resort that effortlessly blends hospitality with art.
There’s nothing quite like coastal Japan—I love waking up to island-dotted bays and gentle sea breezes. In this particular town, though, the landscape is peppered with tendrils of steam and mist that rise high above the pine trees and blue waters. This is Beppu, the hot springs capital of Japan.
Located on the eastern coast of Kyushu Island in southwestern Japan, Beppu has been an onsen (hot spring) destination for centuries. There are more than 2,500 hot spring sources in town, and travelers have been coming to cleanse and soothe themselves in Beppu’s warm waters for centuries. You can see the town’s geothermal prowess in full display at its seven “hells”—pools of steaming water that each have their own unique features. The “sea hell” bubbles with turquoise water, while “blood pond hell” is famous for its ominous, dark red hue, thanks to its rich iron oxide content.
As you walk around Beppu, you’ll notice evidence of the springs quite literally everywhere. As cobblestone paths give way to twisting stone staircases, you’ll see that they’re flanked by channels of thermal water rushing past. The gentle flow and trickle of hot spring water is the signature soundtrack of a time well spent in Beppu.
However, there is so much more to Beppu than just onsens. The city also has a renowned bamboo art tradition that draws artists from around the world, and you’ll find bustling music bars and natural wine hangouts in the city as well. I like to visit Beppu when I want to truly unwind and feel worlds away from the hustle and bustle of Tokyo.
To get the inside scoop, I spoke with Tomomi Hatayama, who works at Wander Compass, a tourist information center located near Beppu Station. She’s lived in the city for over 10 years, and loves to share her love for Beppu, with its unbeatable beauty and friendly locals, among travelers.
Here’s what you need to know before planning a trip to Beppu.
Best Hotels & Resorts
Beppu on a sunny day.
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Amane Resort Seikai
Beppu is a seaside resort town, so there’s naturally a tempting collection of beach hotels to peruse. The Amane Resort Seikai is one of the ritziest options, with Western-style rooms and rooftop dining with tables that hug a dazzling infinity pool. The hotel has both Japanese and French cuisine, all crafted with local ingredients. Its on-site spa has a range of treatments such as massages, aromatherapy, and facials. Every room has an open-air bath with an ocean view, allowing guests to soak in Beppu’s therapeutic waters while gazing out at the endless blue horizon.
Yanagiya
For a traditional hotel in the Kannawa district, stay at Yanagiya. The lodge has been family-owned since the Meiji era, and upon entering, you’ll immediately be greeted with the soft glow of washi paper doors and homey tatami (woven straw) flooring. Dining at Yanagiya also offers another way to appreciate Beppu’s hot springs: meals are prepared by being steamed in the mineral-rich onsen water.
Galleria Midobaru
For art lovers, Hatayama recommends Galleria Midobaru, and says it’s “a unique hotel where you can enjoy contemporary art as part of the stay experience,” and you’ll notice a curated collection of Japanese art all around the property. Every material used in the building’s construction was locally sourced, from its stone bathtubs filled with onsen water to the Japanese oak furniture. Located a bit up Mount Tsurumi, Galleria Midobaru is close to the Beppu Ropeway and has sweeping views of the city below through floor-to-ceiling windows.
Best Things to Do
Weaving bamboo at the Bamboo Craft Center.
Oita Prefectural Tourism Association
Bamboo Craft Center
“Beppu has a long history of traditional bamboo weaving and its reputation draws artists from all over the world,” Hatayama says. The best place to get an introduction to the art is at the Bamboo Craft Center. In addition to exhibits that showcase traditional tools and bamboo-crafting techniques, the center also has hands-on workshops where visitors can create bamboo bells or small flower baskets—just be sure to reserve at least one week in advance.
Beppu Ropeway
For panoramic vistas of Beppu, take the ropeway to the summit of Mount Tsurumi. At 1,375 meters, the peak has 360-degree views of the mountainous Kyushu region and Beppu Bay. “While it’s enjoyable in any season, wait for a sunny day and then hike down from the top,” Hatayama says. She also recommends visiting the shrines of the Seven Lucky Gods while you’re on the mountain. Whether seeking financial luck, longevity, or beauty, visiting the shrines is a delightful way to combine stunning sights, a little hike, and Japanese-Buddhist folk culture.
Shonin Park
Shonin Park, located along Beppu’s coast, is a recently opened complex where guests can shop, dine, and have spa time all in one convenient location. Begin your day with a stroll along the waterfront, browsing confectionery and souvenir shops. Then, book one of Beppu’s most famous spa experiences—a sand bath. Thanks to the area’s volcanic activity, digging just a few feet into the sand reveals warm, steamy pockets of air heated by underground geothermal vents. Simply make a reservation, don a traditional robe, and lie down in one of the sand beds overlooking the water. A spa staff member will then expertly cover your body with sand, from toes to neck. Enjoy the comforting weight of the sand, the soothing heat of the earth, and the serene view of the sea all at once in one surreal moment.
Best Restaurants
Dishes from an izakya in Beppu.
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Robata Jin
Robata Jin opened in 1975 and has been serving dishes using local ingredients ever since. Diners can choose between intimate counter seating to watch the chefs at work or more spacious horigotatsu tables, to sit on tatami flooring with a recessed space beneath the table for their legs. The menu has a variety of traditional Japanese fare, such as clams steamed in sake, charcoal-grilled ribs, and tempura shiitake mushrooms. Satisfy your thirst with a glass of kabosu, freshly squeezed local citrus fruit, or a pour of wakabotan (a word which means “undiluted and unfiltered”) sake, made at a local Beppu sake brewery, Kokuu no Kura.
Noodle Factory Life
Located in downtown Beppu and open until 1:00 a.m., Noodle Factory Life is my favorite spot for a late-night bowl of ramen in Beppu. It has a very nice vegan ramen option, with classics for meat lovers such as creamy tonkotsu pork bone broth, spicy tantanmen, and a clear salted chicken soup. The shop has two tables in the back, and is a great choice for families, vegetarians, and night owls alike.
New Basara
New Basara is a fantastic example of the new culinary wave growing in Beppu. The owner sources natural wines from across Japan and pairs them with small bites—if you ask, he’ll tell you about the vineyards each vintage comes from. The menu, written on a chalkboard, changes daily based on seasonal ingredients. Nibbles range from rich pork terrine to bright lemongrass gyoza. I love visiting New Basara for date night, and it’s a great way to explore Beppu’s emerging wine scene.
Best Hot Springs
People enjoying an infinity pool overlooking Beppu at sunset.
Oita Prefectural Tourism Association
Naturally, visiting an onsen is a must-do in Beppu. Hatayama’s advice for hot spring lovers?
“If you want to really feel the onsen, go up the mountain to the Kannawa area,” she says. “The streets are filled with rising steam from the hot springs.”
Yuyama No Sato
Hatayama’s favorite onsen is also one of the town’s most unique: Yuyama No Sato.
“The owner is 86 years old, and after retiring, he wanted to create his own mountainside onsen to share his passion with others,” she says, “Every time I visit, I discover something new in his design … It’s in the forest, so you feel like you’re completely in nature.”
One minute in the milky bath next to a waterfall, and you’ll truly feel like you’ve escaped the city. A notable feature of Yuyama No Sato is that swimsuits are required, as it is an outdoor mixed-gender bath. This makes it a good choice for first-timers, since traditional onsen are gender-separated and are typically nude.
Hyotan Onsen
For those in the know, it may come as no surprise that Hyotan Onsen has not just one, but three Michelin stars in Michelin Green Guides Japan. While here, guests will be able to enjoy traditional Japanese architecture and exceptional water quality that is completely undiluted with tap water. “They use the original cooling system made with bamboo,” Hatayam says. “It’s called ‘yu no taki’ [hot spring waterfall], which cools the temperature naturally by channeling the water down a series of bamboo chutes.”
Hyotan Onsen is also tattoo-friendly and has private bath rentals. If you visit only one onsen in Beppu, Hyotan Onsen is an outstanding choice.
Umi Jigoku
Umi Jigoku is the most famous onsen in Beppu, but with a name that literally means “sea hell,” it’s far too hot for bathing. A National Place of Scenic Beauty, Umi Jigoku was formed 1,200 years ago by an eruption from nearby Mount Tsurumi. The water reaches a scalding 200 degrees Fahrenheit and is an ethereal cobalt blue. I’ll never forget the first time I saw the giant plumes of smoke billow forth like giant sails in the wind. With each gust, the steam shifts direction and envelopes visitors in a sulfurous, opaque mist.
There are seven “hells” in total in Beppu, and visitors can explore the pools via a walking route. Five can be explored on foot from the Kannawa area, and the remaining two are a short bus ride away. There are also four footbaths nearby, which give you the chance to still partake in the waters of Umi Jigoku but at a much more tolerable temperature.
Best Time to Visit
Steam rising from Beppu’s hot spring bath houses.
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Winter is my favorite time to soak in Beppu’s hot springs, and the season also promises clear skies. While the city itself maintains mild temperatures, a trip to the mountains in the winter months will see a light dusting of snow. Sitting in a steaming outdoor bath, looking out onto snowy mountains, is a true Japanese experience that can’t be beat. However, Beppu is welcoming to visitors year-round, with summer being the quietest. Both autumn and spring tend to be busier, but have comfortable weather and beautiful seasonal foliage.
How to Get There
Aerial view of a busy road in Beppu.
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Beppu is on the island of Kyushu, in southern Japan. Due to its distance, it is most easily reached by plane from Tokyo, and the closest major airports are Oita Airport (OIT) and Fukuoka Airport (FUK). Oita Airport is about a 40-minute drive from Beppu, while Fukuoka is about an hour and 40 minutes away. Public transportation is available from the airport to Beppu (there are a few transfers involved), but you may find it easier to rent a car. Flights are very affordable, and sometimes go for as low as $145 round-trip.
While the Shinkansen (bullet train) from Tokyo is an option, it takes about six hours and costs around $200 one way. For travelers coming from Kyoto, the Shinkansen has shorter travel times and lower fares, making it a practical alternative.
How to Get Around
Walking, taking the city bus, or renting a bicycle are the three most common ways of getting around Beppu. The city’s mountainous terrain and volcanic landscape have made it difficult to develop an extensive train network, so the train system mainly runs along the coast. Electric bicycles can be rented from Wander Compass, as well as several other locations throughout the city, making it easy to zip up and down the slopes.
AloJapan.com