The restaurant at Okada Manila is helmed by Yoshihiro Sugiyama from Japan, who practices Kyoto’s culinary philosophy
MANILA, Philippines – Japanese dining in Metro Manila usually leans toward the familiar and mainstream: fusion sushi rolls, hearty bowls of ramen, meaty gyoza, and deep-fried katsu rice bowls. But at the relaunched Kappou YOSHI in Okada Manila, the approach is different — the restaurant takes after Kyoto’s style of dining, which leans toward restraint and refinement.
In Kyoto, its cuisine is less about quantity and spectacle, but more about subtlety, balance, seasonality, and a traditional focus on local produce and quality meats and fish.
KAPPOU Yoshi in Okada Manila. All images by Steph Arnaldo/Rappler
Kyoto’s inland geography meant that sushi never fully developed as a staple, and that influence is felt here. There’s no lineup of maki rolls. Instead, the focus is on omakase (a style of dining that leaves the menu up to the chef, depending on the ingredients of the day) and a la carte dishes created by chef de cuisine Yoshihiro Sugiyama from Japan.
OMAKASE and counter seating
Inspired by the principle of “Onko Chishin” — learning from the past to enlighten the present — Sugiyama believes in showcasing Kyoto’s rich culinary heritage with contemporary presentation, with fine ingredients carefully sourced from across Japan — from Hokkaido to Okinawa.
Simple in tradition
As Kappou Yoshi reopens with refreshed yet still minimalist interiors, its menu also features a mix of old signatures and new dishes, with many of them not typically found in standard Japanese chains.
The beautiful daikon salad (P1,250) is more than just julienned radish — the crisp vegetable is dressed in a light but bright sauce that packs the umami of bonito and dried fish, complemented by the natural sweetness of juicy cherry tomatoes.
DAIKON salad
While there’s no sushi-making here, sashimi plates (P3,300 for three to five kinds) are on the menu. A plate might include the usual salmon or tuna (whether akami or toro), or uni (sea urchin), tai (sea bream), and hamachi (yellowtail), but you can also choose from more rare and expensive finds like ikura (salmon roe), hotate (scallop), kegani (horsehair crab), akagai (ark shell), shimaaji (striped jack), mirugai (geoduck clam), and seasonal catch, depending on what’s available.
SASHIMI plate of your choice of assortment
If you’re craving something more comforting, the classic tempura delivers — golden, light, and just greasy enough, with huge and fresh prawns that stay juicy inside a thin, crispy coating.
DIFFERENT kinds of tempura are available
Balancing indulgence with restraint, the mains include charcoal-grilled wagyu (P4,000) seasoned simply with salt, letting the tender and rich wagyu shine without being too heavy. The Japanese vegetable side dishes add elegance to the meal.
WAGYU with mashed potatoes and vegetables.
The duck with foie gras (P3,000) brings a deeper, gamier meat to the plate, softened by the decadent foie gras.
SLICES of tender duck breast
The grilled red lobster with uni (P2,800) is sweet, plump, and slightly briny, while its serving size can serve as an appetizer more than a solo main entrée.
LOBSTER with uni
One dish worth ordering ahead is the truffle claypot rice (it takes 40 minutes to prepare!). At P3,000, it can serve two to three guests. Moist Japanese rice is slowly cooked in an earthy and savory broth, layered with real truffle shavings. The truffles lend an authentic and rich depth to the rice without overpowering it or tasting artificial.
SERVED fresh and mixed and plated in front of you
Dessert is understated but memorable — the creamy hojicha pudding (P170) has the distinct aroma of roasted green tea rather than overt sweetness, and pairs beautifully with the house-made ice cream and the sweetest and juiciest slice of Japanese honeydew melon. The kokuto (Okinawan brown sugar) and kinako (roasted soybean flour) ice cream flavors stay true to what they promise, closing the meal with tradition.
SWEET ending to a meal
It’s meticulous but not over-the-top plating when it comes to Kyoto cuisine, and the sophistication is evident. Here, the meats and produce speak for themselves, in line with Kyoto cuisine — kyo-ryori — known for its subtlety, slowness, and reliance on seasonality. – Rappler.com
Kappou Yoshi is located in Okada Manila, New Seaside Drive, Entertainment City, Parañaque City.
AloJapan.com