A restaurant within a restaurant in Kyoto—hidden inside the Ritz-Carlton Kyoto’s La Locanda—Chef’s Table by Katsuhito Inoue offers kaiseki reimagined for the modern age. Elegantly refurbished last year, this eight-seat sanctuary is framed by pale wooden walls and a striking stone backdrop. The fine-grained aji-ishi granite table (the same stone used in temples) becomes a stage for gardener Kohki Suzuki’s daily artistry: soft green moss, textured wood pieces, and artfully arranged rocks and leaves in seasonal colors create a living tableau.
Chef Inoue orchestrates his zero-waste philosophy from the intimate open kitchen, where every sound and aroma becomes part of the dinner theater experience. His fusion tasting menu follows Japan’s 72 micro-seasons with dishes that push kaiseki boundaries: impossibly light sweet corn tartlets topped with finger lime, horseradish, and Japanese prosciutto; kelp-cured yellowtail and micro herbs sandwiched between crisp first-flush nori squares. Tender abalone arrives prepared three ways, drizzled with abalone liver-enriched sauce beneath a flurry of black truffles, while perfectly cooked monkfish bathed in sizzling garlic oil is served with pickled pumpkin flowers. The finale—donabe claypot rice with iseebi spiny lobster mixed with creamy bouillabaisse sauce—exemplifies Inoue’s inventive approach. It’s a splurge but worth it.
AloJapan.com