At Sushi Onodera inside the Four Seasons Kyoto, the 400-year-old cypress counter sits against a glimmering silver backdrop, beneath which vibrant ceramics by the sixth-generation head of the renowned Miyagawa family are displayed. Behind the counter, chef Takuya Kubo defies every stereotype about intimidating sushi masters. Raised in Aomori amid the legendary Oma tuna fishing grounds, he’s charming and approachable as well as deeply knowledgeable—the antithesis of the stern omakase experience you might expect at this caliber of restaurant.

Onodera has claimed the prized New Year’s tuna at Tokyo’s Toyosu Market for five consecutive years, sourcing impeccable ingredients from purveyors around the country, in addition to local Kyoto suppliers. Two omakase courses showcase this top-tier fish on exquisite Bizen-yaki and Kyo-yaki ceramics, while the Four Seasons’ beverage director orchestrates precise pairings featuring sake or wine, plus thoughtful Japanese tea service. This is luxury sushi for milestone moments—birthdays, anniversaries, and celebrations that deserve the Four Seasons treatment.

AloJapan.com