Conceived by Japanese designer Noriyoshi Muramatsu of Studio Glitt, the restaurant’s interior transforms what looks like a former tube station, but isn’t, into a theatrical, multi-level dining destination where refinement meets whimsy. Chandeliers marry the intricate elegance of traditional Edokiriko glass-cutting with the playful spirit of glass-crafted animé characters, while quirky accents – like lamps fashioned from Japanese toys – inject a vibrant pop sensibility. With its mix of raw industrial touches, low mood lighting, polished craftsmanship and joyful eccentricity, the design strikes a perfect balance between sophistication and kitsch.
As for the main attraction, the food – which comes courtesy of French culinary director and chef Renald Epie – is eclectic and beautifully done. Clap’s sampling menu, which highlights the best and brightest from its culinary catalogue, is diverse and notably light. Every dish served is of the highest quality, both in ingredients and execution, however, if particular standouts had to be selected these would include the Salmon Volcano tower, a stack of fresh salmon rolls topped with a smooth sauce that masters the balance of sweet and spicy, and the signature Black Cod Miso, its melt-in-the-mouth texture perfectly elevated by its delicately sweet coating. The Pistachio-Crusted Baby Chicken with yuzu daikon was another highlight, as was the Charred Cauliflower with soy aoili, toasted panko and parmesan. For dessert we had the Tira’Miso – a Japanese twist on the tiramisu – its fluffy vanilla mascarpone cream cutting through the syrupy miso-caramelia and espresso-soaked miso sponge to delectable effect.
Drinks enriched the experience throughout, with a sommelier on offer should you wish to pair wines, and a far-reaching cocktail menu that featured thoughtful combinations that were precise in construction and pretty in presentation. I had the Bloody Geisha, a crimson-coloured cocktail made with Patron Silver tequila, Bandida Cristalino, Manzanilla Sherry, red shish, plum, celery, and clarified Pickle House tomato juice. Fresh and flavourful, I had mine as a mocktail, but those smoky, spicy notes come through deliciously all the same. My guest meanwhile had the Zebra, a smooth and fruity blend of Lyre’s Amaretti, lime juice, calamansi and vanilla; the perfect pairing for a meal that lived on the mind long after the plates were cleared and the bill paid.
A style-concious setting where the food is sublime, Clap London plays the restaurant game better than most.
Photography courtesy of Clap.
claprestaurant.com
AloJapan.com