Katsu curry is one of those B-kyū gurume classics that has caught the imagination of diners outside Japan—alongside ramen, udon, gyoza ,and okonomiyaki, a savory vegetable pancake from Osaka and Hiroshima. Tokyo’s version, monjayaki, has yet to travel; ditto Spaghetti Napolitan, aka Japanese Ketchup Spaghetti, which was, the story goes, created in post-war Yokohama for American servicemen. I try it later at Hashiya Spaghetti, a father-and-son shop in Hatagaya, where it costs only $7.30 USD. It’s sweet and sour with sausage, peppers, and umami-rich ketchup, and genuinely tasty. It reflects the quality B-kyū food found in Tokyo’s neighborhoods at prices that barely dent the budget.
Tokyo city taxi
Graydon Herriott
Specials board
Graydon Herriott
“The beauty of B-kyū is just how accessible it is,” says Palace Hotel Tokyo’s executive sous chef, Akira Ota, as we sit down that evening for a steak sandwich in the Palace Lounge. “A B-kyū dish may originate in a certain town or region, but wherever it is offered, you can try it and enjoy it. I think of it as hometown comfort food because its accessibility and affordability make it part of my daily life.”
Ota tells us that our meal—Nick’s Special Filet Steak Sandwich—was named in honor of a guest who came here every week for more than 20 years for the dish. “For Nick-san this sandwich is like an old friend; whenever he thinks of it he is reminded of happy times in our hotel,” he says. “It’s wonderfully representative of the approachability of B-kyū gurume—it is the kind of food that lingers in our memories.”
How to enjoy Tokyo’s B-kyū
Certain Tokyo neighborhoods are known for their signature B-kyū gurume dishes. There’s Tsukishima for monjayaki (Tokyo-style savoury pancakes) or Shimokitazawa for curry houses such as Pannya Cafe Curry. Hatagaya suburb has Hashiya Spaghetti restaurant, great gyoza places (including hipster spot Fil, which also offers coffee) and Torian for karaage, or fried chicken.
To book a table, Tokyoites use the website Tabelog to seek out the city’s best dining. Its Hyakumeiten section shows the Top 100 restaurants in various food categories (including plenty of B-kyū gurume favorites), and it works well with Google Translate.
Pass at Pannya Cafe Curry
Graydon HerriottDishes to look forRamen
With more than 5,000 ramen shops in Tokyo, noodles are never far away. Tsukemen Kinryu in Kanda is one of eight highly rated shops owned by the Koike group, each with its own ramen style. And there are recommendations on Brian MacDuckston’s website for bowls of ramen costing less than $7.
Udon
Udon shops are dotted all over Tokyo, with pit stops where bowls are cheap (under $3.50 USD) often found near major stations. Oni-himokawa udon originated in Gunma, north of Tokyo, and at Hanayama Udon it’s served hot or cold with soy, sesame and sake dipping sauces from about $7 USD.
Monjayaki
Tokyo’s signature B-kyū gurume is monjayaki: a runnier version of okonomiyaki. There are 100 specialist restaurants around “Monja Street” in Tsukishima that serve it. Staff help diners cook vegetables, batter and toppings such as mentaiko (salted pollack roe) on a teppan grill at their table. Prices start from about $7 USD.
Tempura at Hanayama Udon
Graydon Herriott
Diners on Tsukishima’s “Monja Street”
Graydon HerriottKushiyaki
Grilled skewers are ubiquitous in izakayas and on street yatai stalls. For quality yakitori (the chicken variety), there’s Ningyocho Torihada in Ningyocho or Torigin in Ginza, where a meal comes in at about $20 USD.
Coffee and sando combo
Tiny artisan coffee joints such as Camelback are popular purveyors of the uniquely Japanese sando. Popular coffee destinations include the Nakameguro and Jimbocho districts.
Steak sandwich
Nick’s Special Filet Steak Sandwich, served at Palace Hotel Tokyo, is the ultimate comfort food. It’s made with premium Japanese beef cooked in red wine and fond de veau, and served in pillowy shokupan – but at $46 USD, it’s B-kyū more in vibe than price.
AloJapan.com