SECRET KYOTO: Quiet Adventures Most Tourists Miss

SECRET KYOTO: Quiet Adventures Most Tourists Miss

Kyoto isn’t only endless temples and shrines. If you just know where to look, you can leave the tourist hordes behind and carve out an adventure that’s way off the beaten path. So, let’s head down to Fushimi. No, obviously not that Insta sham sheep show. Stay on the train until Momoyama. Can you handle a 20inut stroll with nobody around for company? Of course you can. But look, what’s this? As if out of nowhere, this magnificent gate house is right before your eyes. Ascend that staircase and peep through the entrance. Surely not. But yes, it’s a hidden castle that’s more well known amongst Kyoto’s dog owners than international tourists. This is Fushimi Momoyama Castle. First built as the home for national leader, ace samurai, and allround big cheese, Toyotomy Hideoshi, the first castle was set up at the end of the 16th century, only to be trashed a couple of years later in a big earthquake. After another rebuild and subsequent demolition, we’re left with this version, a replica in a slightly different location. The original was located a little to the east on the site of the current Maji morselum, which I covered in a previous video. Although it may look like a castle from the outside, this wasn’t actually intended to serve any real defensive purpose. See, Hideoshi was getting on a bit, and this was going to be his retirement pad. Inside, the decoration was rather sumptuous with a golden tea room being the prime example of all the luxury that went into the build. Now, much as I’d like to get inside, it’s off limits to visitors these days, supposedly because the earthquake proofing isn’t up to scratch. But don’t let that put you off. There are barely any visitors here and that leaves you to roam free and drink in the super chilled out vibe without distractions or stress. The small garden is very well-maintained and there are almost endless angles for appreciating the design of this fortress up close. This is the nearest you’re going to get to a private castle visit on your Japan trip. And I recommend coming at sunset if you want to make the most of this secret stronghold. Now, I always say that walking a bit further is the easiest way to beat the coyoto crowds or really just crowds in general. But for the next hidden gem, we’re taking things up a few more notches. Catch a ride along the Aan Railway in the northeast of the city and stay on board right until the end until Yas Hazan Guuchi. Take a few moments to admire the classic station building here before heading up to the Mount Rope and cable car. Compared to the alternatives of taking a bus or hiking up the 848 m to the summit, this way offers a ride that’s half scenic journey, half quiet thrill. The route gives you two different modes to use to reach the top. The first vehicle you climb aboard is basically a kind of tram that’s pulled up the slope using a cable pulley system. It scarcely seems possible at first. It’s such a steep slope to climb, but before long you’ll be gorping because you’re at the changeover point and right in front of you is the incredible vista of the northern reaches of Kyoto. At this point, you have to change over to a gondola for the final leg of the ascent. This is one more example of the journey being just as fun as the destination. I’ve actually come to take this journey by itself before because it’s such a great spot for seeing some of the best autumn colors in the city. And because it’s so far north and there’s limited space in that cable car, you’re not going to feel like you’re sharing the experience with a million other people. You should hope for blue skies above because that view you were just drinking in, well, it’s only going to get better from here on in. Because at the other end of the journey, hidden at the top of Mount H, is the perfect antidote for headaches picked up at the eternal rugby scrum known as King Kakuji Convention Center. Up here you’ve got the fresh mountain air to clear that brain fog away. Stunning views of Lake Buer through the trees, as well as the totally unexpected Garden Museum. he this scintillating delight up in the clouds is a brilliant mashup of impressionist art and gardens that glisten with color throughout the year. There are plenty of recreations of impressionist scenes, notably Monet’s iconic waterlies series of paintings. It’s like Monet’s garden at Giveri was airlifted to a Kyoto mountaintop, complete with flower beds styled after his work and replica paintings hidden among the blooms. Sometimes it can feel like you step through the frame into the world of the painting, completely leaving Kyoto behind. The expansive gardens are home to some 1,500 types of flowers, meaning that you can visit from April all the way through to the middle of November and be able to see something different in bloom. Particularly in the summer months, a trip up to the summit here can bring some welcome restbite from the heat of the city. With slightly lower temperatures because of the elevated altitude plus the mountain breeze, you’re all set to get lost in the gardens. Or simply daydream the afternoon away, your thoughts floating through the sweeping panoramas you’ll find everywhere you look. Now, if you’re enjoying adventuring through Kyoto’s quirkier and quieter corners, I’m sure you’ll love my new ebook, Japan Out There Cansite Edition. It’s full of secret spots from around Kyoto, Osaka, Nara, and beyond. All to guarantee you a properly unique trip. I handpicked all the destinations to make sure you have an incredible Japan adventure. And I’ve also packed in lots of handy tips so you’ll look like you’ve already been to these places, even though it’s actually your first time. Check out the link in the pinned comment or scan the QR code on screen. Now, let’s face it, you can gorge your eyes on scenery, but all the views in the world can’t make up for the fact that they’re 100% calorief free. So, let’s head down into the city and fix that. Luckily, I’ve got the perfect riverside spot. And since it’s up in the north of Kyoto, you’ll be leaving with your eardrums intact. Plus, this is a cafe everyone can enjoy because it’s not just completely vegan, it’s also totally glutenfree. Cafe Planet is a quirky yet soothing oasis of calm despite its setting along the relatively busy Immedara Street and across from Dimatchagi station on the Khan line. My favorite place to sit is at the window facing the Camo Delta area, another secret spot of Kyoto I featured in a previous video, which is known for its stepping stones. You’re partially hidden away from passers by in the cafe, but you can still easily people watch or just gaze out towards the mountains in the distance. But that’s not all. If minimalism is more your style, there are plenty of other seating options, including this cozy hideout up on a mezzanine level. The menu here is limited to a few lunch options, snacks, and drinks, but it’s all excellent quality, which is sure to be music to the ears for those of you with dietary restrictions. This time around, a hefty organic vegetable salad and combo of vegan pizzas was in order to do something about that calorie deficit. Although, I could easily have hung around here for one or several of their cookies and a latte. Such is the dreaminess of this ery. After that high altitude jaunt up the mountain, you might be wondering if it’s even worth trying to find a similar kind of solitude down in the city. So, let me surprise you. Starting down at Kyoto Station, jump on a train heading to Arashyama. But brace yourself. You’re going to feel like a proper donkey getting off early at Hanzono. Anyway, leave those insta hunters behind because just a light stroll north takes us to the delightfully deserted Mio Shinji. This Renzyen temple complex is truly expansive and it’s easy to saunter along the exquisite stone pathways on a journey to nowhere but tranquility. It’s one of those places where getting lost is part of the allure. And because this site is so enormous, the getting lost isn’t likely to be a communal activity. overabundance of charming, barely discovered corners and a staggering lack of bustle. All whispers authentic Kyoto to all of you who pay a visit. Put your phone away and see where your nose can take you. What I think makes Mo Shinji so special though, apart from the endless scenic beauty of course, is how deeply it’s embedded in everyday Kyoto life. Without noisy crowds to muddy the atmosphere, you’ll quickly spot the locals passing through the grounds. They’re probably following the shortcuts they’ve used every day for years. Even if that shortcut involves a low bridge and the need to drop their head. If you pay attention, you might even glimpse a monk off to attend to his duties. Mio Shinji was once home to an imperial villa which was later converted to a Zen temple in 1337. With 46 subtemples and plenty of superbly sculpted gardens, it would be difficult to recommend any one spot to visit. I always find in this situation, it’s good to pick whichever entrance piques my interest and roll from there. Some of them will be closed with bamboo blocking your entry. But don’t be put off. Part of the fun is peering through imagining what’s inside. Taoin’s garden is astonishing. One of those picture perfect scenes that still feels intimate and reserved just for you. Hunt for long enough and you’ll find this intriguing sauna room once used by priests who would meditates in clouds of steam. I mean, Ki Stadium doesn’t have that, does it? And over in the Dharma Hall, there’s a magnificent ceiling dragon spiraling through the clouds above your head. And no, you can’t take pictures. So, yes, this sign came in handy. For the next trio of perfect picks, we need to venture down south of the city to the uber overlooked oasis, Uji. Try saying that quickly. It’s an easy 35minute hop on a JR train from Kyoto station which gives you more than enough time to go and drop me a thumbs up because let’s face it, without me you’d just be following the same cookie cutter itinerary built from every Kyoto Top 10 video. Now Uji is a name synonymous in Japan with green tea and not just any old slop, the proper Marks and Sparks top quality kind. With this video being deliberately light on temples and shrines, you’re welcome. You might think that I’m going to send you off to do a tea ceremony, but come on. I think we can do a bit better than that, right? Just a few minutes walk from Uji Bridge, you can find Chazuna. And yes, I’m probably butchering that name. Aka Uji’s Tea Museum. Located in a trippy triangular building next to the river and surrounded by vast swavthes of tea greening its way to ripeness, this is an ideal spot to get up to speed on how matcha gets from the field to your taste buds. At Charzuna, you can take part in a matcha grinding workshop. This experience session takes you through the process of how the green tea is cultivated and harvested before it’s time to get all hands-on. Grinding matcher in the traditional way is surprisingly much more labor intensive than I’d expected and producing even the smallest bit of powder took several minutes of hard work. Once you’ve worked up a sweat, it’s time for sifting. And then, and only then, are you ready to taste the fruit of your labors? Yes, you’re also going to learn how to make the perfect cup of matcha. And when that’s ready, there’s also the pairing of matcha dango with ice cream and a sprinkling of that matcha powder you just made. Experience sessions at Charzuna are a superb way of slowing down to truly appreciate the tea culture of Uji. Not only that, you’re only ever going to be in a small group, meaning it’s usually a chilled out experience. The teachers here speak great English, so you can take some time to chat with them and ask all your questions. Charzuna has a wide range of experience sessions beyond matcha grinding, so it’s pretty likely there’ll be something on offer for you. There’s one last hidden gem I want to share down in Uji. So head to Uji’s JR station. It’s a short hop on the bus for 10 minutes. And don’t worry because there are three services an hour. We’re heading off a little bit to the south. And you’ll want to get off at Uji Botanical Garden, aka Shakabutsu Coen. But no, we’re not here for the garden. Our target is this building that merges seamlessly into the forest around it. Another gem hidden in a forest? Surely not. Well, it’s not quite, but near enough. This is Amperand Garden Cho Restaurant. And no, I don’t understand the name either. But what I do understand is how this is one of the best cafe hideouts in the area. Inside, you could be forgiven for thinking you’ve journeyied out into the countryside. the wooden structure and ceramic tiles dreaming up an atmosphere more like the south of France than the south of Kyoto. The menu is heavily weighted towards European style cuisine. And if you’ve already had lunch, there’s a great selection of desserts and drinks for a unique afternoon break here. Because in warmer months, take a seat on the deck to soak up nature’s refreshing green glow and enjoy the cooling breeze coming off the hills surrounding Uji. If the weather’s cooler, don’t worry. A table by the windows still gives you that dining in the forest feeling. The view outside seems to slow down time while you’re here. So, if you’re looking for a change of pace, it’s definitely worth that short ride on the bus. And when you’re done eating, don’t forget to check out this sneaky view of Uji before heading back to the city. Now, remember Mount Tier from earlier in the video? For the final adventure, we’re off to explore the opposite face of that mountain. It’s a hidden site that most 3 days in Kyoto visitors never consider. So while everyone’s out snapping their lives away at the bamboo traffic jam, take a little jaunt over into Shea Prefecture on one of Kahan Railways toy trains. A 10-minute workout gets you to Sakamoto Hi Zanguchi Station. This is the start of the Sakamoto cable car, another train pulled by cable up a ridiculously steep slope. This railway opened back in 1927 and runs for an incredible 2,25 m or a mile and a quarter. I find it pretty astonishing that anyone would even attempt to build this kind of transport link. And perhaps it’s not that surprising that this is the longest so-called cable car of its kind in the whole of the country. Riding up this side of the mountain is quite different to the journey we did earlier in the video. Traveling this way, you’re deep in the forest for most of the ascent with the towering trees creating a green tunnel for the train in many places. And there’s also an actual tunnel to navigate to. It’s enough to make you think you’re on your way to an alpine resort. And you kind of are. You can catch glimpses of Lake Bua on the way up, but for the best viewpoint, wait until the final station. Just next door, there’s a viewing platform. This is where you’ll find utterly stunning vistas of the lake, including the city of Otsu, as well as the western shore and beyond to the north. So, on to today’s final destination. We’re back on top of Mount H again, only this time on the eastern side. This mountain hideway is Enrauji, a Buddhist monastery and temple complex as well as a UNESCO World Heritage site. And it looks like a lot of people didn’t get the memo on that last one because look, no crowds. Enrauji dates back to the end of the 8th century and is one of the most significant monasteries in the whole of Japan. It’s also the center for something called Kaihogyo, where monks repeatedly walk long distances around the mountain every single day in 100day blocks while meditating and praying as they go. And these so-called marathon monks do this over several years. Now, as you go about exploring the complex, you’ll certainly see the attraction of being isolated in the forest on top of a mountain. is a great place to reflect on the long history not just of Enrakuji but of Kyoto itself. Although before anyone points out, yes, I do know that this temple is actually across the border in Shea Prefecture. The Enrakuji complex is spread across three main areas, although the most important buildings are down in the Toau or East Pagoda section. Walking between areas does take a bit of time and it may be uphill depending on where you’re going. So, it’s good to budget a whole afternoon for your visit. You should know that you can also access the complex via bus from the east side of the garden museum we saw earlier in the video. This means it’s fairly straightforward to bundle it with Enrakuji and make it a whole day out away from the tourist hordes. Because this might well be the emptiest world heritage site that you’ll find during your stay in Kyoto. I couldn’t say for sure, but I do know that when I came in midepptember, it felt far from busy. I was free to revel in the seclusion, the little details on the signs of each building, the unexpected bells out in the forest clearings. They were all free from distractions and incessant chatter that you normally get at other World Heritage spots. So, that’s it for Coyoto’s quieter and quirkier site. But if you’re in the mood to venture further outside the city to find more quieter spots, check out this video up here. See you. Yeah, Kyoto is overrun with to my foot. What a load of rubbish.

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CREDITS
/// VIDEO
Japan Vlog | Day 7 | Fushimi Inari Shrine
Kirk Cipriano

CC BY 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/

/// PHOTOS
“妙心寺 浴室「明智風呂」 内部” flickr photo by kyotodmo https://flickr.com/photos/185581316@N07/49088631596 shared under a Creative Commons (BY 2.0) license

退蔵院。妙心寺塔頭。京都市 by squeuei
https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=154268966
shared under a Creative Commons (BY 2.0) license

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