By Windy Aulia – published 13 Jun 2025
To those who worship at the altar of French high fashion, the House of Christian Dior has long been considered as the compass that guides the industry. How apt then for Maria Grazia Chiuri, the artistic director of Dior Womenswear, to shine the spotlight on Japan and its rich culture for Dior’s fall 2025 collection amidst global uncertainties.
Asia in general, and Japan in particular, has always been an important region for Dior, even for brand founder Christian Dior. Monsieur Dior, who was credited for the relaunch of the couture industry post-World War II, had commissioned special textiles for his haute couture fall/winter 1957 collection from storied manufacturing companies in Kyoto. And that fact, of course, became the obvious foundation for Chiuri’s new fall collection.
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Photos: Courtesy of Dior
In truth, there really is no extra love needed for Japan and its exports. Since the Edo era, the art of Ukiyo-e with its unique mise en scène and storytelling, for example, has inspired the artworks of many Western masters, including Vincent Van Gogh, Edgar Degas and Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec. Other Japanese original artforms, like manga and J-Pop are regarded as the genesis of today’s animation and music sub-genres (think K-pop and C-pop).
On the runway, Chiuri chose to adopt the most ubiquitous Japanese item of clothing—the kimono, which was heavily referenced in her collection of dresses, jackets and tops. Her pre-show visit to the Kyoto Costume Institute was a study into the sartorial habits of the world’s cultures. She also dissected pieces from Monsieur Dior’s haute couture fall/winter 1957 collection, dubbed the Diorpaletot and the Diorcoat, which were created to be worn over a kimono while respecting the shape. This resulted in the loose-fitting, enveloping jackets and coats, which were sometimes worn belted. Precious pieces, both for their light-as-air silk fabric, accompanied the silhouettes. Often they were embellished using the Shibori technique or the more tactile embroidery of a Japanese garden.
Related article: What Will Jonathan Anderson Bring To The House Of Dior?
Photos: Courtesy of Dior
For this Dior collection, a “less-precious” line up was evident, where daywear highlighted the dressing habits of Japan’s youth; denim was elevated with wide trousers and jumpsuits cut loose with roomy sleeves. The leather cargo pants, in particular, looked fresh when paired with a black sheer knit top and Shogun-style sandals. Meanwhile, the bomber and the hooded jackets came across as extraordinary with degradé dyeing techniques and embroidery.
When asked why she focused on Japan and its sartorial culture, Chiuri says, “Because Dior is a couture House and thinks about the craft and the dialogue (between the craftsmen). At the same time, my background is Italian. And in Italy there’s a big tradition of craft, some of which we have lost. I think this is a very crucial thing for our industry.”
AloJapan.com