Lost in Japan’s Mountains: Nakasendo to Nagoya, Bear country & Hidden Gorges!
Hey Guys,
We are in Japan, and in this episode we will continue our adventure in
the Nakatsugawa region before returning to Nagoya. We start our adventure in an ancient Takayama
temple to get some good fortune before heading out on our journey. Ringing the bell
– receiving a stick with a number we drew our fortune gave our thanks.
If it’s a good one you keep it, if it’s a bad one you tie it on the rope
so that the bad luck would stay behind. With the good luck and spirits on our side we
hit the road – leaving Takayama behind to head to our first stop – Tsukechi Gorge. At this time
of year it was pretty quiet – we were the only car in the carpark and the only restaurant closed. I
guess there would be no after hike snacks for us. Deciphering the Map – we were reasonably
confident the trail was open to explore. The walk times to each point seemed reasonable
so what the hey – good chance to explore. They had a small admission fee which
we promptly paid – adhering to the signs which said they had security cameras.
Good chance to get rid of some spare change. The trail head was well signed with a number of
waterfall stops to see – so we started making our way down the steep gorge – carefully
though as there had been some snowfall in this area and some ice on the paths.
The gorge was deep within an ancient cypress forest far away from the
hustle and bustle of any major towns. Not far down the steps we came to the waterfalls.
Fed by snowmelt and rain from the towering Mt Ontake. The waters were crystal clear, and looked
very cold. Definitely not the place to take a dip. Continuing along the trail,
we crossed one of the area’s iconic suspension bridges — lightly dusted with
snow, it made the walk all the more thrilling. At least neither of us ended up on our butts. Though we missed the peak of
autumn, we could still catch glimpses of that amazing coloured
foliage the gorge is known for. From Tsukechi gorge we made our way
through the Kiso Valley to Tsumago, one of Japans most untouched villages.
The village is a post town situated on the Nakesendo trail a trade route connecting
Kyoto and Edo (or modern day Tokyo). The main street has been preserved and
feels like a step back in time. The Nakesendo trail runs 534 km
across Japan’s central mountains. Luckily shops and importantly restaurants
are amongst the towns buildings and getting hungry after a mornings hike we
stopped by a local ryokan for a bite to eat. The ryokan had a traditional dining room with
tatami matts and a choice of chairs or ground cushions – thankfully they had plenty of
heating and hot tea to warm us up from the icy temperatures outside – on the menu
apart from the staples of miso soup and rice was a real delicacy of the region Masu
Kanroni – trout simmered in a sweet syrup, served in a set with pickles. It
certainly looked interesting to me. We also ordered soba served hot with mountain
vegetables to warm us up from the incredible cold outside. Made from buckwheat flower they
have a nutty flavour and really warmed us up. The trout flavour was incredible – the sweet glaze
had soaked into the fish giving it a caramelised richness without being overpowering. Definitely
felt like a home cooked meal – so satisfying. After our light lunch we continued the
Nakesendo trail to the town of Magome. On the way they had a little rest stop which had
the traditional clothing of the do period to get into the real spirit of the time. What do you
think guys, do you think this style suits me? Magome in the evening was breathtaking —
waterwheels, wooden homes, and barely any crowds. The peace and quiet made it feel even more
magical. Shops here sell local products made from chestnuts and ceramics, and the town’s traditional
look has been preserved by real residents who still live in these 400-year-old homes.
At the top of the town you are able to see a beautiful view of the mountains – well some of
them there was a bit of cloud around. We could see the sun setting just beyond the to the city
of Nakatsugawa our destination for dinner. But before we could leave we had to say goodbye to
one of the most friendly residents. Sayonara! We decided to head down to family run restaurant
by the name of Hiroshi on the edge of town. The staff were warm, friendly and invited us in. Starving after a long day we started
off with some fish croquettes, they were huge. But the fish was well cooked
and the very tasty with that Japanese mayo. Then came our mains.
Luckily we ordered just the one plate – the serving was
huge! And that’s not all it came in a set – so it came with miso soup,
salad, dipping sauces and pepper salt. The plate was itself was an omurice which has
a base of rice with an omelette on top. Then capped off with a demi-glace sauce. Which
is a kind of beefy and velvety but with a slight sweetness and touch of soy sauce. If
that didn’t tasty enough they also had big tempura fried prawns. Perfectly fried, still
juicy. They were amazing dipped in that sauce. But the real star of the show for me
was those huge chicken karaage pieces, they were like a whole chicken thigh! Super
juicy and really crispy on the outside. Perfect! It was such a friendly place
and hearty meal – definitely recommend if you are ever in Nakastugawa. From there we wanted to stop by a local
supermarket to get some fruit or maybe a sweet. What an experience! From cooked sweet potatoes,
to ready to go fresh seafood , even sashimi. and A5 Wagyu at affordable prices. I almost
wish our hotel had a grill so we could take these back to the room. We stocked up on
some snacks and wished this was our local. The next day we got our hiking boots on and
checked out of Nakatsugawa. Our first stop was the Naegi Castle ruins which lay just
outside of the town. The case was built in 1526 on top of a small mountain that
rose on the banks of the Kiso River. Just a short walk from the carpark – lay the
ruins of the castle and grounds. There was a steep path or road that it used to be all
the way to the castle. It was dismantled in the 1800s but there was a picture on
the sign to see what it once looked like. There were signs on the different areas
of the castle and what they were used for – like storing weapons
or horses etc. This area was where they used to house the weapons
they’d use to fight the other clans. Tat the top now a viewing deck stands, where
the main keep used to be. Offering epic views of the area. Amazing to think they built a
castle on top of this rock. With the Kiso river on one side and the Nakesendo route
winding its way through the mountains on the other – its easy to see why it was such
a strategic and well protected location. On this side you could see the
stables where the horses were kept. Even with the cloudy day the
scenery was absolutely stunning. Definitely one to put your list – just 15
minutes from town and a short walk up a hill. From there it was time to head towards
a bigger hike in the mountains. we popped in our directions into google
and started heading there. A bear warning sign greeted us at the trailhead — a
subtle but serious reminder that we were stepping into a real wilderness.
Stopping at the end of the normal road we decided to take the widest track
just so we could see what was coming. But then We came across a big trap – for
a bear or what was it. It looked pretty old and it was closed so maybe it wasn’t used
anymore. It certainly had us on edge though. All we saw these handwritten signs – and
checked google – and it seemed like we were in the right place to get to the lookout,
but it was very quiet and we didn’t have phone reception here. We tried a few different
trails from the starting point, but they didn’t seem to lead anywhere. We saw one that said
1.5km to somewhere – presumably our lookout. But the trail started getting steeper. And started running over the ridge
lines with steep drops on either side. And then to get worse it became almost
completely covered in the fallen leaves so we decided to head back before
we got lost or worse….eaten. Returning back and once we got
reception we realised that we might be a ranger area only.
A reminder next time to double check the routes but it was definitely
a thrilling bit of exploration though. Heading back in civilisation we arrived
in Nagoya. Completed in 1615 by the Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu – it was the first castle in
Japan to be designated a national treasure. And look at it – its definitely a treasure
It has been closed since 2018 due to safety concerns during earthquakes with plans in place
to rebuild the interior. The views at sunset were magic. Castle walls and surrounding areas were
a lovely way to enjoy the evening. With only a small entry fee and beautifully manicured
Japanese gardens its definitely worth the visit. Outside the castle there are a
lot of restaurants and places to relax. In the evening we paid a visit to the
Chubu Electric Power Miraai Tower/ Nagoya TV tower – the first TV tower in Japan
completed in 1954. Its 180m high. If you head up the Oasis shopping mall you can get
this stunning night view of the tower. The next day we headed sadly to the airport –
but like all places in Japan it has everything you need – if you missed the studio Ghibli museum
– they have their own shop, full of souvenirs, and all of your favourite characters
from the movies. Hungry – From Ramen to Sushi they have all Japanese food you could
want to get that last fix before you leave. A must do though is to check out the
aircraft viewing deck – you get unreal views of the airside runways and all the
planes landing and departing – a bit of a paradise for those aviation enthusiasts. Fun
fact Chubu airport is constructed on a man made island – an astonishing feat of engineering
but for some its just too cold to enjoy. Unfortunately that brings us to the end
of our Japan series – let us know if you enjoyed that one and if you did give us a like and
subscribe and well see you again in the next one.
Join us as we leave Takayama behind and journey deep into Japan’s central mountains, exploring one of the country’s most scenic and off-the-beaten-path routes.
We begin with a peaceful visit to a local temple before heading to the stunning Tsukechi Gorge, where snow-dusted suspension bridges and waterfalls awaited us. Then it’s on to the historic Nakasendo Trail, where we walk through the beautifully preserved post towns of Tsumago and Magome-juku — stepping back in time on this ancient trade route.
Along the way, we feast on regional specialties like Masu Kanroni and juicy karaage with omurice in Nakatsugawa. But the trip takes an unexpected turn when we head out on a mountain hike and run into bear warning signs and an actual bear trap.
After making it back to civilization, we wrap up our adventure with a visit to Nagoya Castle and the glowing TV Tower at night, and finish with a last taste of Japan at the airport’s viewing deck and souvenir shops.
This episode is a mix of peaceful nature, traditional culture, epic food, and an unexpected brush with the wild side of Japan.
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00:00 Intro – Our Central Japan Journey Begins
00:18 Takayama Temple Visit & Fortune Ritual
00:52 Exploring Tsukechi Gorge & Snowy Suspension Bridge
02:40 Arrival in Tsumago – Historic Nakasendo Village
03:17 Traditional Lunch: Masu Kanroni & Hot Soba
04:15 Magome in the Evening – Timeless Beauty
05:23 Dinner Feast in Nakatsugawa – Giant Omurice & Karaage
06:54 Visiting a Local Japanese Supermarket
07:27 Exploring Naegi Castle Ruins & Mountain Views
09:07 Bear Warnings on the Trail
09:28 Spotting a Bear Trap & Turning Back
10:33 Returning to Nagoya – City Life Again
10:43 Visiting Nagoya Castle at Sunset
11:28 Nagoya TV Tower & Night Views
11:47 Last Day in Japan – Airport Food & Viewing Deck
12:45 Outro – Saying Goodbye to Japan
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