THINK “JAPAN SKI TRIP” and Niseko instantly comes to mind. But there’s another region that deserves some international love: Japan’s Snow Country, the ultimate Japow gem hiding in plain sight.
Home to 29 ski resorts packed with pristine groomers and epic backcountry gold, this powder paradise is also the setting for rich cultural activities and flavor-packed experiences making the ultimate in aprés. It’s got more sake breweries (and a coin-operated sake bar with 100 to try) than any other prefecture, original Japanese culinary highlights only found here, Japan’s largest onsen, and ryokans so special that Japanese guests question who told you about their favorite places to stay and soak. Oh, and did I mention the snow? A jaw-dropping eight meters blanketed the region this 2024-25 season.
Yet, Snow Country often flies under the radar, overshadowed by Japan’s ski-trip heavyweightslike Hakuba and Niseko. Just 70 minutes from Tokyo via bullet train, this underrated wonder spans seven cities and towns, including Minakami and Yuzawa.
Courtesy of Canyons Japan
Courtesy of Canyons Japan
Courtesy of Canyons Japan
Courtesy of Canyons Japan
Adventure tourism entrepreneur and mountain guide Mike Harris is the founder of Canyons Japan, a local guide outfitter who helped found mountain safety regulations in Japan and now runs five ski base operations with 170 staff in the region. Originally from New Zealand, Harris moved to Minakami 30 years ago, where he met his now-wife and raised their family together.
“Minakami, in particular, really struck me as the Queenstown of Japan,” explains Harris. “It has incredible natural resources—lakes, rivers, mountains, ski resorts—but it felt like its potential hadn’t been fully realized or managed yet.”
With over 20 ski resorts within an hour and some of the world’s best backcountry skiing, Harris describes the area as “a destination with something for everyone, from advanced skiers, seeking a challenge to families looking for a fun, accessible experience.” Harris is also the co-founder of Kodo Travel, a bespoke luxury travel agency specializing in Japan’s most exceptional destinations—your go-to resource for planning the perfect Snow Country getaway.
Where to Stay
Courtesy of Relais & Châteaux Senjuan
The Library Courtesy of Relais & Châteaux Senjuan
Guestroom. Courtesy of Relais & Châteaux Senjuan
Garden in the snow. Courtesy of Relais & Châteaux Senjuan
Japanese food for breakfast. Courtesy of Relais & Châteaux Senjuan
Courtesy of Kaikake Onsen
Courtesy of Kaikake Onsen
Courtesy of Kaikake Onsen
Courtesy of Kaikake Onsen
While Snow Country is a single region, Minakami and Yuzawa are distinct enough in character and experience that staying in both areas is well worth your visit. Each offers a variety of ryokans (traditional Japanese inns with onsen and inclusive meals), ranging from historic and traditional to modern and boutique. One standout option is the Relais & Châteaux Senjuan ryokan in Minakami, which features both Western-style and traditional rooms, each with a private onsen. Guests can enjoy breathtaking views of the snow-covered trees with lapping sounds of the Tani River below from the warmth of their onsen or one of the many trails and relaxation areas around the property.
In Yuzawa, Kaikake Onsen’s centuries-old history, exquisite culinary, and unique hot springs attract Japanese tourists from all over the country. “Our onsen is a five-generation family legacy,” says Hidemi Hasegawa, Kaikake’s okami (a Japanese term for a ryokan’s traditional female proprietor).
“We have 750-year-old pools and healing waters that soothe the eyes, and the ryokan is 150 years old. We’re not just a ryokan, but a place of tradition, nature and relaxation, where guests come to connect with the nostalgic spirit of our land.” Kaikake is ideally located in the wilderness of Joshinetsu Kogen National Park at the foot of Kagura ski resort, buried in clouds of snow with traditional Japanese architecture and hot spring steam popping up from its depths.
Courtesy of Ryugon
Courtesy of Ryugon
Courtesy of Ryugon
Courtesy of Ryugon
Ryugon, in northern Yuzawa, seamlessly blends the traditional ryokan experience with modern touches. Meticulously crafted from reclaimed Japanese barn houses, the newly renovated and expanded property offers a harmonious fusion of heritage and contemporary design. Most rooms include a private onsen, modern luxuries, Western-style beds, and spacious designs.
While dinner schedules are traditionally quite strict at ryokans, Ryugon bends the rules on this and a few other aspects. It also boasts beautiful grounds (though the gardens are buried in snow in the winter) and holds cooking classes for a private cultural experience, and is a nearby walk to some funky and fun Japanese “snack bars” (small family-run karaoke establishments).
Both Kaikake and Ryugon offer transportation from the main Echigo-Yuzawa bullet train station that goes directly to Tokyo, and Ryugon operates a sister ryokan, Hatago Ise, directly across the street from the Echigo-Yuzawa train station and ski resort.
Where to Ski—and Soak
Mt. T in Minakami. Courtesy of Mt. T
Mt. T in Minakami. Courtesy of Mt. T
When it comes to skiing in Japan, the Japanese have perfected the art of the ultimate winter day: carving through deep powder in the morning, savoring a steaming bowl of ramen or soba for lunch, and unwinding in a soothing onsen by afternoon.
True to its name, Snow Country not only offers deep winter adventures but also some of Japan’s most treasured onsen, including the renowned Takaragawa Onsen–Japan’s largest. This co-ed, clothed onsen has the Takara River rushing through the middle and is framed by suspension bridges connecting the baths. Other iconic onsen in Snow Country worth a visit include Hoshi Onsen and Yamanoyu.
Before relaxing in an onsen, skiing often takes center stage—and some resorts truly stand out above the rest. In Minakami, Mt. T is a charming community resort known for its abundant off-piste powder runs weaving through the trees. As the official guiding company and ski school operator at Mt. T, Canyons Japan/Kodo Travel enjoys exclusive first-tracks access to this hidden gem. With the resort closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, perfectly timed post-storm visits with Canyon’s first-tracks access offer untouched powder—truly the stuff skiers’ dreams are made of.
Okutone. Courtesy of Minakami Town
Hodaigi. Courtesy of Minakami
Then there’s Okutone, renowned as one of the country’s best night ski resorts, staying open until midnight on weekends. In contrast, Hodaigi is a versatile, family-friendly resort that caters to all skill levels. It features gentle slopes for beginners and families while also boasting thrilling tree skiing and backcountry terrain for those seeking adventure.
Minakami, while requiring a vehicle rental or a guide with transport, offers a quieter and more intimate experience compared to the bustling Yuzawa side of Snow Country—and that’s exactly where its charm lies. Though shuttles to Minakami’s ski resorts are available, they’re less frequent and less connected than those in Yuzawa, which enjoys the added convenience of the bullet train stopping directly at Gala Station—the base for Gala Yuzawa Resort.
In front of Minakami Station. Courtesy of Minakami
For those visiting Snow Country for just one or two nights, Gala Yuzawa is the ideal choice, offering not only beginner-friendly skier terrain and stunning views but also a variety of non-ski activities like snowmobiling, snow biking, snowshoeing, tubing, and tobogganing, making it a perfect all-around winter destination.
For those seeking powder-filled tree runs, off-piste backcountry terrain, and some of Yuzawa’s best skiing, Hakkaisan and Kagura Resorts are must-visit destinations. Kagura offers extensive terrain for ski touring and connects to Tashiro, and Naeba Resorts with a single lift pass. Meanwhile, Hakkaisan is renowned for its legendary lift-accessed backcountry terrain, which requires a guide to explore safely. Both resorts also feature plenty of inbound terrain and are beloved by locals and pros alike.
Takuminosato Craft Village. Courtesy of Minakami Town
At Takuminosato Craft Village, this charming hub of traditional arts in a historic neighborhood is where visitors can immerse themselves in hands-on experiences like pottery, weaving, and soba noodle making or purchase traditional Japanese textiles, art, and other goods. Other must-see attractions include the Yuzawa Folklore History Museum for a historical look at the traditional way of living amongst snow as high as the trees and Bokushi Street, a picturesque shopping street lined in traditional architecture unique to Snow Country.
Where to Eat (and Drink)
Courtesy of Ryugon
Minakami has a hidden food scene full of storied dishes and entrepreneurs who are reviving traditional Japanese cuisine with a twist. Kadoya is a family-run sobaya (soba noodle house) with a rich 250-year history while embracing a modern twist.
Each morning, 14th-generation sobashi (Japanese for soba artisan) Kazuhiko Watanabe, rises early to handcraft the traditional soba noodles while introducing innovative and untraditional flavors, such as duck broth, blending tradition with contemporary culinary ideas.
Catching wild soft-shelled turtles. Courtesy of Tantokuwassai
Charcuterie (wild boar and deer). Courtesy of Tantokuwassai
At Tantokuwassai, owner-chef Tatsuya Abi hunts the local game that he cooks using traditional tools such as a kozare (a paddle-like tool to stabilize the hunter while running through the deep snow) and kanjikis (small snowshoe-like footwear). In the warmer months, he uses a tenkara (a traditional and original version of a fly-fishing rod) to catch fresh fish.
At Ikufuudo, Makio Suda—fondly nicknamed the “Techno Butcher” for his side gig as a DJ—introduces European-style butchering and cooking to the local scene, all without ever having set foot in Europe. Renowned for his expertise, he specializes in preparing and cooking with the finest locally sourced meats.
Octone Brewing is an award-winning craft brewery with a small taphouse in town, but its beers are also readily available at the local ski hills and restaurants. Other local Minakami favorites include Izakaya-style dining at Daihachi and hot pot Amenimomakezu.
Courtesy of Hakkaisan Brewery
Courtesy of Hakkaisan Brewery
Courtesy of Hakkaisan Brewery
Yuzawa is in Niigata, a prefecture renowned for being one of the country’s premier sake-producing regions, with more sake breweries than anywhere else in Japan. At Hakkaisan Brewery, tradition meets innovation with time-honored brewing techniques and cutting-edge facilities, such as their unique snow-aging process. By utilizing stored snow to maintain a constant temperature of 3°C (~37F) throughout the summer, they craft their signature snow-aged sake, celebrated for its refined flavor and quality. Enjoy a sake tasting at Hakkaisan Brewery or pair a venison burger with Hakkaisan beer at their Sarukurayama Brewery.
For an authentic soba experience, head to Hakkaisan Soba, nestled high in the mountains among ancient snow-covered cedar trees. If you’re in town, don’t miss Ishin, where you can enjoy a delicious tsuke men (dipping noodles) and a cheerful smile-dance from the owner-operator Nomura—just be sure to order it through the electronic vendor!
Courtesy of Hakkaisan Soba
Courtesy of Hakkaisan Soba
Before leaving Yuzawa, be sure to visit the Ponshukan Marketplace for its sake-tasting facility located at the Echigo Yuzawa train station. This unique-to-Japan experience allows you to purchase tokens and sample from over 100 varieties of sake from 90 breweries. Even if you’re not departing via the train station, make it a point to stop by, as you won’t find anything like it anywhere else in Japan.
BOOK YOUR STAY AT KAIKAKE ONSEN VIA AGODA.COM
Lede and hero image by Kaikake Onsen.
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AloJapan.com