There’s a Japanese saying:
富士山に一度も登らぬばかに、二度登るばか
And in English for my non-Japanese readers:
“He who climbs Mount Fuji once is a wise man; he who climbs twice is a fool.”
Despite the warning, I’ll be hiking Mt Fuji for the second time this upcoming season. As I prepare, I’m reflecting on what I learned last year. Here are a few things to know if you’re interested in hiking Fuji-San.
First things first, the 5Ws:
Where: In order to hike Mt Fuji you need to be on the main island of Japan. I’d suggest flying into either Haneda (HND) or Narita (NRT) with Haneda being slightly closer. For most trekkers, the hike will start from the 5th Station. There are four trails to hike from different starting points around the mountain with the Yoshida Trail being the most popular route to climb to the summit.
When: Mt Fuji has a suuuuper short climbing season: early July to early September. The reason for the two-month window? Outside of this timeframe, there’s typically snow, ice, and extreme wind on the mountain. The rest of mainland Japan is boiling from such hot temperatures and high humidity in July and August, but the average temperature in mid-summer on the summit is 40 degrees Fahrenheit or 4 degrees celsius.
What: What is the time commitment to hike? You can summit and be back to Tokyo in one day. It’s a very long day, but it’s very doable. Many opt to reserve a hut in order to watch the sunrise from the mountain making it into a two-day hike. I haven’t tried that. Last year, I completed the climb in a day and was back home by late-dinner. This year, I plan to do the same. For a full-day Fuji-San hike, the 5th station at Yoshida trail is closed to anyone not staying in a mountain hut from 2:00pm to 3:00am. I started my climb last year around 5:30am and made it to the top by 10:30.
Who: I hiked with a group of 14. Some had prepared. Some hadn’t. Some didn’t bring enough water and were sure they would die. Others, summited in 2 and a half hours. Some finished. Some turned around. Mt. Fuji is a very accessible hike if you’re prepared and a very daunting, defeating, and dangerous hike if you’re not.
Why: Why hike Mt Fuji? That is up to you, reader. However, if you’re looking for reasons, good ol’ google AI says this: “Hiking Mount Fuji is a popular activity due to its spiritual significance, cultural importance, and the breathtaking views it offers. The mountain is a symbol of Japan and a place of pilgrimage for many. Hikers seek the unique experience of witnessing the sunrise from the summit and experiencing the awe-inspiring landscape.”
Preparing for Round Two
Last year, I climbing Fuji-San in July. This year, I plan to hike in August, but not much of my preparations will change. I plan to carry/wear the following:
Carry:
Pack: I’m between my Osprey DAYLITE PLUS (13 L) and my Gregory MIWOK 12. They both have interior sleeves for hydration reservoirs. The Gregory has two zipper hip pockets. They both have dual water bottle mesh side pockets.
Hydration: 2.5L Osprey hydration reservoir filled to capacity. Last year, I went through about 2L and shared about half a liter with my group. The stations sell water on the mountain, but it gets more expensive as you ascend and you have to carry out your trash.
100 yen coins. Toilets are available along the Yoshida trail at the stations. Toilets are pay per use and cost ¥200-¥300. They also get more expensive as you ascend… but look at this view from the stalls!
Additional cash. Cash is king on the mountain. And there’s a surprisingly large amount of things that you can buy! Starting at 5th station, there’s a large cafe, gift shop, and a few other restaurants and shops. You’ll see people carrying souvenir climbing sticks. Those can be purchased at the 5th station. Then, along the way, you’ll have the option to stop at the stations to get them stamped. Stamps cost ¥200-¥500, so your souvenir climbing stick can get quite pricey if you stop for all the stamps. The Mount Fuji admission fee for 2025 is ¥4,000. You can either book your admission ahead of time or on the day of.
Emergency food, water, and oxygen. I didn’t need my oxygen can last year, but it’s always good to be prepared! A few people from my group last year experienced altitude sickness and weren’t able to summit.
Nikon D4500. I didn’t bring it last time, and I might regret bringing it this year. But there’s only one way to find out.
Plastic bag for garbage.
Dry bag for electronics.
First aid kit.
Wear:
Feet: Hoka Speedgoat WITH Dirty Girl Gaiters. Don’t forget to wear gaiters. The hike down is brutal. It’s switchbacks for hours on slippery, shifting lava rocks. They’re tiny and immensely annoying if they get in your shoes. I’m wearing my 5-finger toe socks from Mont Bell, because the last thing I want are blisters on this hike. A handful of people from my group had blisters; one had a toenail fall off. Take care of your feet!
Layers: I love my zip-off pants! The weather shifts rapidly. When I started hiking last year, it was chilly, but then the sun rose higher and it got warm. On the start of my descent, it started raining. I zipped the bottom part of my pants on and off a few times in one day. For upper layers: wicking t-shirt, sun shirt, and a packed rain coat.
Additional: ball cap, sunglasses, neck gaiter, and trekking poles. Some have recommended sunscreen, but I sweat way too much for that to be effective.
Mt Fuji Climb Round Two
I’m stoked to have the opportunity to climb again. I’m planning to bring a bigger group this time, and I’m hoping the weather is just as beautiful as last time. I’ve been training for a marathon, so I’m feeling more prepared than last year cardio-wise. However, I definitely need to get out and do a few smaller, local hikes before August.
Random Facts to Impress Your Friends:
Mt. Fuji is the 2nd largest single mountain in the world; it’s as high as 8.5 Empire State Buildings.
Mt. Fuji is the highest mountain in Japan at 3,776 meters.
Near the top the air is noticeably thinner (70%), which may cause altitude sickness and breathing difficulties.
The ascent route on the Yoshida trail consists of multiple stations (resting points): 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, 8.5, and the top. I did some digging to figure out why it’s necessary to have a station 8.5, but my digging got me absolutely nowhere.
There are vendors at the top! I bought my celebratory pin at the top and a few keychains to send to friends in hopes they’ll one day join me in Japan!
You can hike the trail along the crater! I did this last year, and it was my favorite part. It’s less crowded, incredibly massive, and a great way to stretch out your legs on somewhat-flat ground before the descent.
The saying one more time: “He who climbs Mount Fuji once is a wise man; he who climbs twice is a fool.”
Last year, I got to climb Fuji, and I became neither wise nor a man. So, I’m hoping that by climbing it again this year, I won’t become a fool. I’ll keep you posted.
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