Tohoku – Folklores and Little Kyoto – Oga, Kakunodatemachi
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11-13 Nov 2024. We embark on our next chapter through the second prefecture of our Tohoku journey – Akita, where we experience the rugged coast of Oga and catch a glimpse of samurai history in Kakunodatemachi.
The chapter begins at Oga Peninsula, where we confronting the fearsome Namahage demons at the Namahage Museum. The Namahage is a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage, central to a New Year’s Eve folk ritual. Men wearing large vivid masks and straw capes emulate fierce ogre-like deities (Namahage) and visit homes, roaring and looking for lazy people or crying children to encourage good behaviour. Despite their intimidating appearance, these divine messengers are actually benevolent, aiming to drive away evil spirits and bring blessings for health and prosperity for the year ahead.
We then chase breathtaking coastal views at Cape Nyudozaki, the peninsula’s stunning northern tip. It features a distinctive black-and-white striped lighthouse (one of the 50 best in Japan and climbable for free, but sadly was closed for maintenance works when we were there), a monument marking the 40th parallel north latitude, and is renowned as one of Japan’s best sunset spots. We then close off our day trip in Oga by taking in the panoramic landscapes at the Mt. Kanpu Revolving Lookout.
Next, we step back in time in Kakunodate, Akita’s “Little Kyoto.” One of my personal highlights of our entire Tohoku journey and a “must-visit” in my books.
We wander through the preserved Kakunodate Bukeyashiki-Dori (Samurai Residence Street) imagining life centuries ago as we visit the historic Iwahashi and Aoyagi Samurai Houses. Being in Akita, it would be wrong not to encounter an Akita dog – so we made it a point to visit Enishi Musubi where we met two adorable Akita dogs at Enishi Musibi who melted our hearts.
We then indulged in creamy local treats at Michinoku Akita Pudding Honpo (the soy sauce pudding was our personal favourite) and discover traditional flavours at the Ando Jozo Honten miso and soy sauce brewery. I would 100% recommend trying their soy sauces which are made using traditional methods (more info on traditional soy sauce making artisanal craft on Insider’s channel here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MKbRu3_Ynpk).
Their 10y soy sauce is almost-slightly sweet with super dense layers of flavour and umami presenting an almost liqueur-like experience! Definitely an amazing elevating accompaniment to the best sashimi or wagyu. These are of course not produced in large amounts and are notably more expensive than normal – so please do enjoy it with those who appreciate the artisanal craft along with the more nuanced and complex flavours.
(Only whilst editing this video many months after the trip, I realise a minute detail on the soy sauce pudding label – Michinoku actually uses the soy sauce from Ando Jozo Honten to make their soy sauce pudding! Love the local collaboration to create awesome products)
Finally, we immerse ourselves in nature’s artistry with a visit to the stunningly beautiful Dakigaeri Valley, a perfect serene ending to our Akita exploration. Sadly we could not walk to the waterfall at the end of the valley as the path was closed for maintenance at the time. However the entryway with the bridge was still worth a visit and we could still connect with nature and enjoy some of the autumn colours along with Dakigaeri Valley’s azure blue waters.
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