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I can’t see the top of the mountain. Truly, I can’t see the top of the hill closest to where I’m standing. I close my eyes for 30 seconds and my brain begins what feels like the start of an REM cycle. I’m exhausted, jet lagged, and heck, I can’t even tell you what county I’m in.
Coming back to it, I blink my eyes and the wind whips the sense back into me: I’m over 6,000 miles away from home and about to scan my pass for the very first time to ski in Japan. Focusing on not making an international fool of myself, I pole up to the front of the lift line where I’m greeted by the lift operator’s warm smile. “I’m going to be just fine,” I think to myself.
If you’re anything like me, you associate the words “all-inclusive resort” with turquoise waters, fruity tropical drinks, and foam pool parties. And for the most part, you’d be correct. But what if I told you that all-inclusive resorts for skiing exist and that you don’t have to lift a finger from takeoff to landing? That there’s no need to worry about making a reservation at the only good tavern in town, or figuring out how to deal with parking?
For as long as I can remember I’ve wanted to ski in Japan. The JaPow (a cheeky nickname for the notorious powder gracing the islands of Japan) has been calling my name since I learned how much better the snow was out West than in Upstate New York. So when Japan fully reopened after several years of highly restricted pandemic regulations, I knew I had to get out there and experience the powder myself.
The author fully enjoying the famous JaPow. (Photo: Courtesy of Jamie Aranoff)
With a few exceptions, the Japanese ski experience differs from North America in that resort towns—the way we know them—don’t really exist. Yes, there are establishments around the base, but it’s no Park City or Telluride, and that’s part of the charm. That said, flying for over 12 hours and then getting yourself to the ski area warrants some extensive planning, especially when most resorts require renting a car, planning meals, securing rentals, lodging, lift tickets, and just about everything else that goes into planning a big ski trip. And while any opportunity to travel to Japan from North America (or anywhere) is beyond worth it, staying at an all-inclusive offers a level of simplification that might be appealing to a certain type of ski traveler.
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I recently stayed at two different Club Med resorts in Japan’s Hokkaido region: Tomamu, which opened in 2017, and Kiroro Grand, which just debuted this past December. Club Med (yes, that Club Med) has evolved its image from the fratty days of the 1980s, but it has retained much of its lively atmosphere and, of course, its ability to make travel as simple as possible.
The turnkey experience starts at the airport with a transfer to the resort. Once you arrive at the hotel, you’re offered a welcome tea drink and a warm hand towel while your luggage is brought directly to your room. If you’re renting gear, it will be placed in your ski locker, which opens with the same key card bracelet that opens your room. This is where you can store everything you need for the slopes. I ended up leaving my ski jacket, helmet, and all my accessories in the locker since I rarely needed them when I wasn’t skiing. The lockers also boast boot warmers and extra heated racks for mittens or gloves.
Skiing in Japan has its perks: Daily DIY ramen is certainly one of them. (Photo: Courtesy of Jamie Aranoff)
It’s worth noting that while rental gear is not included, it is reasonably priced and top-of-the-line. All Club Med resorts use the newest gear from Rossignol, so you won’t feel any remorse over leaving your sticks at home. Prices for the gear range from $45 to $55 for adults per day, and around $35 for children. All guests, regardless of whether you rent or bring your gear will have access to a ski locker.
As for the skiing, it’s just like you’ve imagined. If you’re looking for sunny bluebird days, you’re in the wrong spot. The Japanese slopes are all about snow, and lots of it. At Kiroro, they average about 826 inches throughout a 160-day season. Of my four days at Kiroro Grand, at the base of Kiroro Snow World (the ski resort Club Med operates on), it stopped snowing for only about 12 hours. Locals complained about the snow being unseasonably light. It was the week of Dec. 8.
What’s special about skiing in Hokkaido is its untouched nature. Kiroro Ski World is a medium-sized resort by Japanese standards at 296 skiable acres, yet it prides itself on no lift lines or crowds. And while there are only 23 marked trails there is endless tree skiing. This is the place to be for untouched powder, and lots of it.
If you rent ahead of time, your gear will be placed in your locker before check-in. (Photo: Courtesy of Jamie Aranoff)
If you’re not super comfortable in powder, or if you’re looking to get better, lessons are included with your stay. Instructors are from all over the world—I met pros from Serbia and Egypt in addition to local Hokkaido instructors. Club Med offers all levels of instruction for adults and children, including the Mini program, where children learn to ski with others their age and have a unique opportunity to meet international friends for life. And for kids, Club Med resorts can be a paradise in and of themselves. From all-day clubs to specialty drinks (read neon-colored sodas) and nightly dancing, the resort feels at times like the winter version of a summer sleepaway camp.
To date, there are over 20 Club Med mountain resorts spanning Canada, the Alps, and Asia, all following a similar model of an all-inclusive ski experience, but each with its own charm and local cultural influences. Much of Club Med feels familiar and is designed to “eliminate the unknown,” according to President of Club Med Henri Giscard d’Estaing. The company’s new L’esprit Libre campaign encourages its guests to truly enjoy their vacation: “L’sprit Libre represents those moments when we finally feel like we’re on vacation, disconnected from the worries and the stress of everyday life to fully embrace the present moment,” said Giscard d’Estaing.
All Club Med rental gear is provided by Rossignol, an homage to their French roots. (Photo: Courtesy of Jamie Aranoff)
Club Med and all-inclusive ski resorts aren’t for everyone, and as a lover of adventure and “roughing it,” I dismissed the idea at first. If you’re in search of the most authentic experience for a particular location, you might want to look elsewhere. The hotels are large and can have a cruise ship feel to them with set meal times and evening shows, and you’ll never find someone who doesn’t speak at least some English. Sure, you can leave the resort any time you please, but if you’re paying for everything, you will likely want to take advantage.
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That said, most Club Med resorts have at least one specialty restaurant featuring cuisine local to the area, and if you’re at the Kiroro Grand you must visit The Ebisu, an on-premises sushi restaurant that served me a life-changing meal: Salmon and tuna that melted in my mouth quicker than ice cream on a hot day. And if you can save room for the dessert, the matcha brownie is the perfect end to the meal: light and sweet but not undeservingly so.
Perhaps embracing l’Esprit Libre is enjoying a matcha brownie with local Hokkaido milk ice cream. It certainly was for the author. (Photo: Courtesy of Jamie Aranoff)
When you’re looking to minimize the stress and logistics of planning an overseas trip, (especially one with a major language barrier), and maximize skiing, staying at a Club Med resort just might make sense. Free group lessons with your crew is a pretty awesome perk, to boot. You never know, you might come to love the electro-pop that pumps through the bar and evening areas of the resort, where G. Rizzatto’s “Freed From Desire” will surely become your new ski trip anthem. A little campy? Yes, but in the best possible way.
AloJapan.com