In early summer 1877, the 10th year of the Meiji Era (1868–1912), a passenger ship from San Francisco arrived at Yokohama Port.
Among those on board was a 38-year-old American zoologist who was reportedly overcome with excitement at the sight of Japan, a land he was setting eyes on for the first time.
Reflecting on the moment, he wrote, “I jumped out on the shores of Japan tickled enough to yell, which I mildly did.”
That man was Edward Morse (1838-1925), best known for discovering the Omori Shell Mounds in Tokyo–ancient middens, or refuse heaps, left by prehistoric peoples who inhabited the region during the Jomon Pottery Culture Period (c. 14500 B.C.-1000 B.C.).
In his book “Japan Day by Day,” Morse expressed deep admiration for the honesty he observed among the Japanese people.
“I have spoken of the honesty of the Japanese. It is certainly a delightful sensation to be in a country where honesty is the rule and not the exception,” he wrote.
Morse also noted the country’s low crime rate, cleanliness and high moral standards, recurring themes in a work filled with affection for the island nation of the Orient.
One of his most well-known remarks is, “Japan is the paradise for children.” In his diary, he added, “There is no other country in the world where they (children) are so kindly treated or where so much attention is devoted to them.”
A drawing he made of “koinobori,” carp-shaped windsocks flown by families to wish for their children’s strength and success during the traditional May 5 festival, also remains.
It was an era when Japan looked up to the “Clouds Above the Hill,” the title of a book that captures the spirit of the Meiji Era, a time filled with ambition and national aspiration, likened to walking with unwavering resolve toward a single shining cloud high in the sky.
During this period, many Western experts were invited to Japan and received with respect.
Yet even as the American scholar admired the country, he occasionally found himself puzzled. He observed that the Japanese were intellectually curious, yet rarely asked, “Why?” This observation led him to ponder, “Why was that?”
May 5 is Children’s Day. After reading these historical words of praise, one cannot help but return to the grim reality of present-day Japan with a sigh.
The country faces a steep decline in birthrate, and one wonders if our society over the past 150 years has truly become as prosperous or livable as we like to believe.
Following Morse’s example, let us ask ourselves some hard questions.
Why are child suicides reaching record highs? Why is one in nine children living in poverty? And why is it that, even when a child’s smile is right before us, we still cannot look up from our smartphones?
—The Asahi Shimbun, May 5
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Vox Populi, Vox Dei is a popular daily column that takes up a wide range of topics, including culture, arts and social trends and developments. Written by veteran Asahi Shimbun writers, the column provides useful perspectives on and insights into contemporary Japan and its culture.
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