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Ten years ago, I went to Tokyo on a lark. I was invited to the opening of the 38-story Aman Tokyo hotel, a beautiful example of urban minimalism and a destination unto itself. I don’t usually go to fancy events like this one, but when friends suggested that I come with them, it all felt too good to pass up. Homebound with two babies under 3, it had been the longest period of my life that I could remember without globe-trotting, and I was bursting at the seams with pent-up wanderlust. Travel is my life, essential to my mental, physical, and spiritual well-being.
But while I appreciate a luxurious hotel as much as the next person, I am always searching for those off-the-beaten-path experiences that get at the soul of a place. So instead of having a multicourse Japanese hotel breakfast the first day, I did my usual “high-low,” venturing out of my hotel and running to the subway station across the street. I was determined to purchase a bowl of ramen from a vending machine I’d read about. Let’s just say it was as surreal as it was delicious. Did you know some of the best food in Tokyo can be found underground in the tiniest hole-in-the-wall places imaginable? The next morning, I got up at some ungodly hour to witness the flurry of activity around the fish market and search for more ramen in the stalls nearby. The truth is, every step you take in a new place is another chance to come upon a small business treasure or morsel. And then you can eat and collect things to take home and place somewhere, so when you look at that notebook or teacup five years later, it brings you right back.
I spent the rest of the day wandering through neighborhoods like Nakameguro, which is the equivalent of Manhattan’s Lower East Side and is also famous for the cherry blossoms, and the more upscale Aoyama. Perhaps the biggest highlight was scoring a reservation at sushi master Jiro Ono’s 10-seat Michelin three-star restaurant in a Tokyo subway station, which was the subject of the documentary Jiro Dreams of Sushi. And when I say I had the omakase, I mean it. I didn’t dare question his mastery by asking what was on the menu or requesting anything. I just sat at the counter and went with the flow, savoring every piece of fish. I spent the rest of my days there discovering little boutique doughnut shops and bookstores where you can stare at the spines of novels that catch your eye. It made me realize that if I hadn’t taken to the streets by foot, led by my natural curiosity, I would never have found most of it.
In general when planning a trip, I tend to go with only a handful of fixed ideas, like the one restaurant you must try, a charming hotel that’s within walking distance of neighborhoods you want to be in, and maybe one museum or activity. I’m also a big believer in crowdsourcing the wisdom of like-minded travelers, either before you go or on the ground. Listen to your gut on who to ask because sometimes a local shopkeeper will tell you about something that’s on no guide’s radar.
But the most important rule of thumb is to make room for happy accidents. Like when on our last night, I actually put on a dress, which is something I almost never do while traveling, and went to a party. It was so exciting that it made me wonder whether I should throw in at least one nice outfit whenever I travel so that I have to find a reason to celebrate. Because life should be a celebration, and what better cause for one than the thrill of being on foreign soil? Especially when we are lucky enough to expand our understanding of the pale blue dot we live on. Sneakers and sequins can coexist. So go out there with all your plans and be open to the unexpected. Take pictures. Write in your journal. And take it all in while you’re there. Before you know it, you’re sharing your journey with others. More confident than the moment you embarked. Another pin on the map. Another everlasting memory to take with you.
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