Dior hosts a style spectacular of East-meets-West elegance in the gardens of Kyoto’s historic Toji Temple

Models line up outside the Toji Temple in Kyoto

Ties between the intricate beauty of the Dior Maison’s intoxicating haute couture and the breathtaking landscape of Japan’s most entrancing landscapes – and indeed its imperial families – have been well established for over half a century. In 1952, Monsieur Dior had titled one of the most endearing silhouettes of his fall-winter collection the ‘Tokio’. The next year, he became the first couturier to present a collection in the country, and a series of looks bearing names inspired by the region followed suit. Ensembles dubbed ‘Japan Japanois’ and ‘Outamaro’ became signature pieces in his collections, working with the Tatsumura Textile atelier in Kyoto to conceive the delicately embroidered brocade fabrics that depicted stunning scenes of the city’s romantic scenes upon his coveted creations. In 1959, the house even received the royal seal of approval from the then Princess Michiko (who would later become the Empress of Japan) as she wed Crown Prince Akihitio, ordering three designs to be worn at her civil ceremony in the Kashiko-dokoro Shinto shrine of the Imperial Palace.

Following Monsieur Dior’s death in 1957, the designer’s protegées Marc Bohan and later John Galliano would too take inspiration from this great Eastern land. In 1971, Bohan staged a runway show in Tokyo, heavily influenced by the arresting imagery of Kabuki theatre. And in 2007, Galliano paid homage to works like Madame Butterfly and Hokusai’s The Great Wave of Kanagawa for his Spring ‘07 couture collection. Yesterday, the maison’s current creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, took the house back to where it all began, with a sizzling spectacular of esteemed East-meets-West style in the cherry blossom-lined gardens of the 17th century Toji Temple in Kyoto.

Nestled in the calming oasis of the historic venue which dates back as far as 796 during the early Heian period, guests made their way to their pews across mini footbridges and pebble-filled pathways in the soft luminescence of the city’s night sky. Young virtuoso Liliyo Tsujimura Fondecave signified the start of the bewitching affair, softly kissing the strings of her violin with its bow for a rendition of Philip Glass’s ‘Epilogue for Solo Violin’ as models slowly paced towards the evening’s captivating catwalk-for-one-night-only.

An inaugural procession of flowing monochromatic looks set the tone for the ensuing showcase of masterful culturally-blended chic. Translucent silk gowns and Kimono-esque silhouettes provided a thoughtful and sombre start, paired with traditional Geta-esque sandals which wrapped around the ankle in swathes of red satin. Opening up into lighter, fresher concoctions of airy elegance, the style codes of the maison proved its perfect matrimony with Japan’s iconography, as evident in lotus-blue floral illustrations splashed upon duster coats and column gowns.

Kimonos were, of course, paramount to the collection, updated and adapted into Paris-ready outerwear and tailoring pieces which took the form of silken twin sets, cropped wrap-jackets and wide-sleeved, trench-like coats. As were other Japan-synonymous design features – classic Obi belts were renovated with metal hardware, and even the grungier denim pieces still imbued an effortless élan, cinched at the waist with loose-legged trousers.

But for Grazia Chiuri, it was more than an homage – it was a tale of collaboration between the two cities. The designer had travelled to Kyoto with her team regularly in the lead-up to the show to visit and work with the Tatsumura Textile atelier – just as her house’s forefather did in the 1950s. First founded in 1894, the CEO of this 5th generation family-owned crafthouse had shown guests around its workrooms earlier in the day where one man, now in his 90s, spoke about his lifelong career, having worked there since he was 15. When it comes to fine fashion, honouring heritage is everything. Whether that’s Dior’s divine style pedigree, or the immense skills of the expert artisans on the other side of the world who helped make up today’s harmonious dreamscape.