What were your first impressions when you arrived?
Step through the automatic doors of what appears to be just another storefront near the Olympic Stadium, and you’re transported to a minimalist sanctuary. The light wood interior evokes a high-end sushi counter rather than your typical ramen-ya. In addition to the counter seating, there’s also a private room with its own hidden door connecting directly to the parking lot.
What’s the crowd like?
You won’t find tourist hordes from nearby Harajuku here. The clientele is predominantly in-the-know locals, though the place has recently been discovered by discerning international visitors.
What should we be drinking?
While most ramen shops offer little beyond beer and tea, Shinoda has imported his fine-dining sensibilities to the beverage program. The drink list features a carefully curated selection of French wines and champagnes. It’s a refreshing—if somewhat pricey—departure from the standard libations that accompany ramen.
Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss.
In 2024, after retiring from his referral-only yakitori restaurant Yakitori Shinoda in upscale Azabu-juban, chef Shigeharu Shinoda pivoted to showcase his poultry prowess in a new format. His signature tori paitan ramen—”paitan” referring to the milky-white, creamy chicken broth—arrives with a frothy soup that delivers an immediate hit of umami without any gaminess. Though the ramen is the main event, don’t sleep on the oyakodon (chicken and egg rice bowl) or the chicken nanban set meal, featuring crispy fried chicken topped with eggy housemade tartar sauce.
And how did the front-of-house folks treat you?
At lunchtime, service is polite and efficient, but don’t expect to chit-chat with the staff. After all, it’s a ramen joint, and there may be a queue after noon. It’s more relaxed at dinner, when Shinoda himself engages with guests.
What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here?
Come to this Tokyo restaurant for the novelty of experiencing a yakitori master’s interpretation of ramen, stay for the seriously tasty karaage fried chicken.
AloJapan.com