Tell us about your first impressions when you arrived.
At Ukiyo, in the backstreets of Tokyo’s hipster neighborhood Yoyogi Uehara, the understated elegance of the space serves as a canvas for Chef Toshi Akama’s culinary artistry. The restaurant’s centerpiece—a charcoal grill that smolders with red-hot embers—hints at the slow-burning creativity that defines the spice-forward approach to fine dining.
What was the crowd like?
A cosmopolitan mix of culinary adventurers who appreciate the restaurant’s boundary-pushing approach.
What should we be drinking?
Trust sommelier Naoto Takeuchi, who co-leads the restaurant with Chef Akama. Takeuchi’s selections complement the globally-influenced flavor profiles, often featuring natural wines that stand up to the restaurant’s innovative use of spice and char.
Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss.
Akama’s thoughtful incorporation of global spice profiles creates eye-opening dishes that never overwhelm the palate. Standouts include a delicate roasted pine nut tofu custard served with fatty sakura trout from Toyama, cured in a mixture of pine shoots and sansho Japanese pepper; the Kirishima Kurobuta Beignet, featuring smoked pork shoulder confit with spring greens from Chiba in a light corn batter; and a dessert showcasing vibrant Aichi rhubarb poached with dune berry and hibiscus, paired with an earthy Malabar peppercorn and olive oil ice cream.
And how did the front-of-house folks treat you?
Service strikes a perfect balance between informed and approachable. Staff members provide thoughtful explanations of Chef Akama’s complex techniques and international influences without veering into pretentiousness.
AloJapan.com