Wine lovers who hear the words “Japanese wine” are likely to think of Yamanashi’s rolling vineyards, or the high terrain of Nagano. But up north in Hokkaido, in a climate once considered too cold for quality wines, the famously finicky Pinot Noir grape is thriving.
A new hub of Japanese winemaking
Restaurateurs and staff from around the world visit a winery in Yoichi, Hokkaido, in November.
The town of Yoichi in the western part of Hokkaido is best known for its apple orchards and whisky production, but the international restaurateurs who visited in November 2024 were there for something else: the vineyard of star winemaker Soga Takahiko, whose Pinot Noir is in demand globally and on menus in some of the world’s finest restaurants.
‘Umami’ wine
Soga was born into a winemaking family based in the central Japanese prefecture of Nagano. He studied brewing at university and worked for a while as a microbiologist. But his passion for wine endured, leading him all over Japan in a search of the perfect terrain to grow Pinot Noir. He found it in the far north.
“Yoichi’s Pinot Noir has an ‘umami’ quality―a delicate, dashi-like savoriness that sets it apart,” Soga says.
Soga Takahiko runs a winery in Yoichi.
Cultivated by nature
The secret? It’s all in the dirt. Unlike the nutrient-poor soils typical for vineyards, Yoichi’s volcanic terrain is rich, well-drained, and teeming with microbial diversity. Soga encourages the microbes to flourish by eschewing all chemical pesticides or fertilizers. The soil, he says, is what gives his wines their unique savor.
Achieving stable yields of high-quality Pinot Noir, however, was a painstaking process. Each year brought new challenges, including the difficulties of dealing with deep snow.
Snow covers the vineyard in winter.
“But in recent years, we’ve finally achieved consistent, high-quality results.”
Soga has shared his cultivation techniques with other aspiring winemakers, spurring a boom in the region. Over the past 15 years, the number of wineries in the Yoichi area has grown nearly eightfold.
Burgundy veteran finds a new home
Hokkaido’s rise as a wine region owes not just to local talent but also to international visionaries like Etienne de Montille, a winemaker from Burgundy with a 300-year family legacy.
Facing the challenges of climate change in France―where rising temperatures have led to overripe grapes and other difficulties for Pinot Noirs ― de Montille began a global search for a more promising location.
Grapes damaged by heat in Burgundy
Around ten years ago, he tried a bottle of Hokkaido wine. It was a revelation, so he set off for the northern Japanese prefecture. He found his dream land in the town of Hakodate, a relatively snow-free area.
“With its south-facing slopes, good ventilation, and cool year-round temperatures, Hakodate had all the right conditions to grow high-quality Pinot Noir,” he says.
Winemaker Etienne de Montille
It has been five years since De Montille began growing grapes in Hakodate. He built a winery there this summer, and his first wines are set to debut next fall. He’s optimistic.
“The distinct salinity is remarkable. It’s something unique to Hokkaido, and I’m excited to share it with the world,” he says.
Etienne de Montille’s winery in Hakodate
Turning climate change into opportunity
Hokkaido’s transformation into a Pinot Noir powerhouse is, in part, a response to global warming. Once considered too cold for wine production, the region now offers an ideal environment for cool-climate grape varieties.
The local government has been quick to embrace this opportunity, offering free winemaking seminars and analytical support to aspiring vintners. The idea is to position the prefecture as a global wine destination.
Hokkaido’s rise as a wine region isn’t about mimicking Burgundy―it’s about creating something distinctly Japanese. With its unique climate, soils, and a growing network of passionate winemakers, the island is reshaping how the world sees Japanese wine.
AloJapan.com